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As we continued toward the cottonwood campground we went through a very nice part of the inner canyon that was wide and filled with flowering cacti and agave. Here is a panoramic view of this part of the canyon.
After passing through the Cottonwood Campgrounds gradually the canyon narrows over the next 4-5 miles. Although this part of the trail was equally pretty and at times felt like a slot canyon, we were a little anxious to reach the Phantom Ranch and were flustered that the trail seemingly went on and on around every bend.
However, we did reach Phantom Ranch and took a pretty long break to fill up our camelbacks, eat some snacks, and change into lighter weight clothes since the day was warming-up. It's a relatively short hike from Phantom to the Bright Angel Trail and the Silver Bridge that took us across the Colorado river. Now the trail changed, first sandy but then becoming more rocky. The trails are very well maintained but the rocky nature of the Bright Angel Trail was noticeable--at least to me. Looking back, both the Black Bridge (in the distance) and the Silver Bridge (in the foreground) make impressive spans across the Colorado River.
As we climbed up out of the inner gorge we again entered the Tonto plateau and the trail flattened out for while. While on the plateau the Bright Angel Trail enters the Indian Gardens, an oasis like spot with trees and lots of vegetation (see picture below, left). It's a good idea to rest-up here because the rest of the way up to the North Rim is non-stop trudging up unforgiving and endless numbers of cruel switchbacks. We should have rested longer here. Upon leaving the Indian Gardens some more spitting rain fell for a brief time, and I just remember that I wasn't going to bother getting my poncho out. I was too tired and thought the rain might keep me cool. So we just put one foot in front of other and kept moving forward, There was a great temptation to look upward. You could see the South Rim (see photos below at right)...but not the trails
that would lead there. Later we passed the 3 mile and 1 1/2 mile resthouses and it began to sleet. The switchbacks are just endless and looking back I could see them winding up the canyon walls with many hapless hikers behind me (see picture below).
We were told by our running mates that when your near the top when you begin seeing people that clearly don't belong hiking these trails....and we began to see such people in the last mile or so. By this time I was hot and sweaty even though the air temperature was getting colder with every step. Near the top it even began to sleet which felt so good and we passed many people coming down in blue jeans, long-sleeved flannel shirts and wearing parkas---I thought that was just crazy. We were just in running shorts and lightweight running shirts. Finally, we reached the summit of the Bright Angel Trail. A quick look downward revealed the Indian Gaden oasis far in the distance which was a magnificent sight.
I regret not stopping at this point and getting a picture with Jane but the South Rim was chaotic with tourists and I just wanted to sit somewhere and rest. Jane and I didn't stay too long here but just made a quick pit stop before going to the car and changing into warm clothes. At this point all I wanted to do was drive to the Wendy's we saw on the way to the Grand Canyon and get a hamburger and some hot and salty french fries.
The basic route that most runners/hikers take is to stay overnight in one of the South Rim Lodges and begin the R2R2R at daybreak the next morning going down the South Kaibab trail which is steep, has no water stops but great views. During the first hour as the sun rises and the cloud cover gradually burns off the colors of the canyon change and at about this time one gets the first glimpse of the Colorado River. After approximately 21/2 hours you reach the black bridge that crosses the Colorado and a short distance later the Phantom Ranch where you can rest and refill your camelback. From Phantom Ranch you proceed up the North Kaibab trail to the North Rim to complete the hike on Day 1. After dinner at the North Rim Lodge and a good nights rest your ready for the run back down the North Kaibab to the Phantom Ranch and the climb up the South Rim by way of the Bright Angel Trail on Day 2. This R2R2R run included 22 miles the first day and 24 miles the second day that an average, fit person can complete in around 9-10 hours each way.
This trip started a little ragged for the group of runners we thought we were going with. After a protracted series of additions (including Jane and I) and dropouts to the participant list this year's hike was referred to as the "Last Man Standing" trip. Two women got pregnant and dropped out (of the two husbands one canceled and one came anyway); 4-5 others canceled due to injuries, one (our friend who provoked our interest in this trip) had a mild stroke and another had a flair-up of MS symptoms and couldn't make the trip. Jane and I were committed to going whatever the consequences.
Our flight to Phoenix was unremarkable. We probably spent more time waiting in line at the Fox rent-a-car desk once we arrived in Phoenix than we spent in the airport waiting for the outbound flight. Once we finally did get a car it was a 4 1/2 hour drive to the South Rim. We had arranged to meet the leader of these yearly trips, Bob C. at the El Tovar restaurant. We arrived at our reserved table for 8 at 5:00 pm on schedule but Bob C. didn't show up until much later; Jane and I had a wonderful dinner anyway and tried to relax. We planned to meet Bob C. and some friends of his early the next morning for the 5 am shuttle to the South Kaibab Trail head. What was quickly becoming an annoying habit Bob C. didn't show at the expected time again (he was having trouble with his guests getting up and going), but we did meet Bob C.'s friends, Gena, Jeremy and Beth who turned out to be REAL trail runners. We chatted during the drive to the trail head, wondered whether to wait for Bob C.....decided not too, took a few pictures together, and then started the journey.
I was really apprehensive at this point as the weather forecast was calling for severe thunderstorms and 2 inches of rain with up to 10 inches of snow above 7,000 feet (i.e. both rims could get a lot of snow) and what consequences that meant of hiking up those trails was any one's guess. Jane and I just tried to prepare for cold, wet trail conditions that we would be out in for about 9-10 hours. As we started out the skies were ominously overcast but we were finally here and were going to make the best of whatever nature brought our way. One way or the other we were going to make it to the North Rim. Below is a panoramic view from the South Kaibab Trail head. In the left foreground is O'Neill Butte which we somehow climb down onto the Tonto Plateau before plunging into the inner Gorge of the Grand Canyon. Upon reaching the Tonto plateau, the view back up at O'Neill Butte (see picture below right) is quite impressive. Don't ask where the trails are because it is really hard to find them.
As the next couple of hours rolled by and we passed countless hikers along we way we began to suspect the weather was going be alright. I heard from one hiker that the really bad weather was further east. After 21/2 hours of running downhill we rested at the famed Phantom Ranch. Below is a picture of Jane reaching the Phantom Ranch and in the foreground the ever present mule patties which decorate the trails.
After a brief respite we were off on the North Kaibab Trail. The trail meanders along Bright Angel Creek; the initial few miles are through the inner gorge and appears as though we are in a slot canyon. Gradually the view opens up to beautiful vistas of the bottom of the Grand Canyon (see picture below). There was little elevation gain till we hit the Cottonwood Campground but Jane and I were feeling the effects of the 2 1/2 hours of downhill running and the altitude and were hiking more than running. The combination of the pounding our legs took coming down the South Kaibab and the higher altitude than we're used to really began to wear away at our stamina. By this time the sun was out and the temperature was warm but pleasent.
Finally we made it to the Coconino Overlook. Below is a panoramic view from the Coconino Overlook. Here, the flora began to change to pine forest dotted with birch trees. From the Coconino Overlook it was a short, easy mile hike to the trail head. We rested briefly at the trail head and met up with Bob C. who finally showed-up and then hitched a ride to the North Rim Lodge.