R2R2R Conclusion

After dinner at the North Rim Lodge restaurant Jane and I did some shopping for the kids at the gift shop and went back to our room to pack-up for tomorrow's journey back to the South Rim and to plan what to wear. As the evening passed the snow flurries subsided and we sat outside on the front porch wrapped in the bed quilt reflecting on the day's events.

The next morning the temperature was in the low 30s and the ground was partially covered under a thin layer of snow. We opted to pay for the 5:45 am shuttle ride to the North Kaibab trail head; our new friends Gena, Jeremy and Beth (pictured at right) hitchhiked. We both arrived at the trail head at about the same time but again, Bob C. was a no-show. Later we learned that he (and his party) took a 5 hour Shuttle ride back to the South Rim evidently fearing that his party was in no shape to hike back to the South Rim in time to make the 4 1/2 hour ride back to Phoenix for their scheduled red-eye flight back to Washington.

Starting elevation for the North Kaibab trail head is 8250'. Leaving the trail head was exciting. Snow from last night's flurries had dusted all the trees and as the sun was rising, fog was rolling off the high canyon escarpments and misting into the cayon. At left is a picture of Jane starting down the North Kaibab Trail and at right a view of the roiling mists cascading off the canyon summits.

Surprizingly, I felt pretty good but we decided play it safe today and fast-hike most of the trip while the real trail runner trio took off at a fast pace. The hike back down to the Phantom Ranch was going to be downhill all the way. We buzzed past the Coconino Overlook (at .75 miles; elevation 7,750'). By the time we reached the Supai Tunnel (at 1.8 miles; elevation 6800') the morning fog was a memory. After another mile we passed over the Red Wall Bridge (see George running toward the bridge) and traversed the cliff-hugging trail down into Roaring Springs Canyon. This part of the trail that Jane is hiking down looks exposed but is very safe and good for taking pictures. Jane looks like a speck against the high canyon walls.

We continued fast-hiking down the Roaring Springs side canyon reaching the namesake falls after 4.7 miles (see picutre of the Roaring Spring below left) and contiued into the Bright Angel Creek Canyon following the burbling stream through the desert landscape. The day contiumed to warm as the sum came out but for the most part the temperature stayed cool.

As we continued toward the cottonwood campground we went through a very nice part of the inner canyon that was wide and filled with flowering cacti and agave. Here is a panoramic view of this part of the canyon.

After passing through the Cottonwood Campgrounds gradually the canyon narrows over the next 4-5 miles. Although this part of the trail was equally pretty and at times felt like a slot canyon, we were a little anxious to reach the Phantom Ranch and were flustered that the trail seemingly went on and on around every bend.
However, we did reach Phantom Ranch and took a pretty long break to fill up our camelbacks, eat some snacks, and change into lighter weight clothes since the day was warming-up. It's a relatively short hike from Phantom to the Bright Angel Trail and the Silver Bridge that took us across the Colorado river. Now the trail changed, first sandy but then becoming more rocky. The trails are very well maintained but the rocky nature of the Bright Angel Trail was noticeable--at least to me. Looking back, both the Black Bridge (in the distance) and the Silver Bridge (in the foreground) make impressive spans across the Colorado River.

As we climbed up out of the inner gorge we again entered the Tonto plateau and the trail flattened out for while. While on the plateau the Bright Angel Trail enters the Indian Gardens, an oasis like spot with trees and lots of vegetation (see picture below, left). It's a good idea to rest-up here because the rest of the way up to the North Rim is non-stop trudging up unforgiving and endless numbers of cruel switchbacks. We should have rested longer here. Upon leaving the Indian Gardens some more spitting rain fell for a brief time, and I just remember that I wasn't going to bother getting my poncho out. I was too tired and thought the rain might keep me cool. So we just put one foot in front of other and kept moving forward, There was a great temptation to look upward. You could see the South Rim (see photos below at right)...but not the trails that would lead there. Later we passed the 3 mile and 1 1/2 mile resthouses and it began to sleet. The switchbacks are just endless and looking back I could see them winding up the canyon walls with many hapless hikers behind me (see picture below).

We were told by our running mates that when your near the top when you begin seeing people that clearly don't belong hiking these trails....and we began to see such people in the last mile or so. By this time I was hot and sweaty even though the air temperature was getting colder with every step. Near the top it even began to sleet which felt so good and we passed many people coming down in blue jeans, long-sleeved flannel shirts and wearing parkas---I thought that was just crazy. We were just in running shorts and lightweight running shirts. Finally, we reached the summit of the Bright Angel Trail. A quick look downward revealed the Indian Gaden oasis far in the distance which was a magnificent sight.

I regret not stopping at this point and getting a picture with Jane but the South Rim was chaotic with tourists and I just wanted to sit somewhere and rest. Jane and I didn't stay too long here but just made a quick pit stop before going to the car and changing into warm clothes. At this point all I wanted to do was drive to the Wendy's we saw on the way to the Grand Canyon and get a hamburger and some hot and salty french fries.

R2R2R Run: Quick stats:

Ascent: Total: 10,300 feet

Day 1 - 5,840, Day 2 - 4,460.
Descent: Total: 10,700 feet

Day 1 - 4,860, Day 2 - 5,840.
Distance: Total: 45 miles

Day 1 - 21 miles, Day 2 - 24 miles .
Time: Total: 18.5 hours

Day 1 - 9 hours. Day 2- 9.5 hours.