R2R2R Grand Canyon Adventure

We had visited the North Rim of the Grand Canyon last year on our family vacation. Due to time constraints we didn't venture far from the short trails around the North Rim Lodge. However, Jane and I were struck with the immenseness of the Grand Canyon and secretly vowed to one day do something grand. The inspiration for our grand adventure came from one or our running buddies who every year goes to the Grand Canyon to do a rim-to-rim-to-rim (R2R2R) run across the Grand Canyon. At least that was our understanding of what he did, needless to say there's a liberal amount of hiking too.

The basic route that most runners/hikers take is to stay overnight in one of the South Rim Lodges and begin the R2R2R at daybreak the next morning going down the South Kaibab trail which is steep, has no water stops but great views. During the first hour as the sun rises and the cloud cover gradually burns off the colors of the canyon change and at about this time one gets the first glimpse of the Colorado River. After approximately 21/2 hours you reach the black bridge that crosses the Colorado and a short distance later the Phantom Ranch where you can rest and refill your camelback. From Phantom Ranch you proceed up the North Kaibab trail to the North Rim to complete the hike on Day 1. After dinner at the North Rim Lodge and a good nights rest your ready for the run back down the North Kaibab to the Phantom Ranch and the climb up the South Rim by way of the Bright Angel Trail on Day 2. This R2R2R run included 22 miles the first day and 24 miles the second day that an average, fit person can complete in around 9-10 hours each way.

This trip started a little ragged for the group of runners we thought we were going with. After a protracted series of additions (including Jane and I) and dropouts to the participant list this year's hike was referred to as the "Last Man Standing" trip. Two women got pregnant and dropped out (of the two husbands one canceled and one came anyway); 4-5 others canceled due to injuries, one (our friend who provoked our interest in this trip) had a mild stroke and another had a flair-up of MS symptoms and couldn't make the trip. Jane and I were committed to going whatever the consequences.

Our flight to Phoenix was unremarkable. We probably spent more time waiting in line at the Fox rent-a-car desk once we arrived in Phoenix than we spent in the airport waiting for the outbound flight. Once we finally did get a car it was a 4 1/2 hour drive to the South Rim. We had arranged to meet the leader of these yearly trips, Bob C. at the El Tovar restaurant. We arrived at our reserved table for 8 at 5:00 pm on schedule but Bob C. didn't show up until much later; Jane and I had a wonderful dinner anyway and tried to relax. We planned to meet Bob C. and some friends of his early the next morning for the 5 am shuttle to the South Kaibab Trail head. What was quickly becoming an annoying habit Bob C. didn't show at the expected time again (he was having trouble with his guests getting up and going), but we did meet Bob C.'s friends, Gena, Jeremy and Beth who turned out to be REAL trail runners. We chatted during the drive to the trail head, wondered whether to wait for Bob C.....decided not too, took a few pictures together, and then started the journey.

I was really apprehensive at this point as the weather forecast was calling for severe thunderstorms and 2 inches of rain with up to 10 inches of snow above 7,000 feet (i.e. both rims could get a lot of snow) and what consequences that meant of hiking up those trails was any one's guess. Jane and I just tried to prepare for cold, wet trail conditions that we would be out in for about 9-10 hours. As we started out the skies were ominously overcast but we were finally here and were going to make the best of whatever nature brought our way. One way or the other we were going to make it to the North Rim. Below is a panoramic view from the South Kaibab Trail head. In the left foreground is O'Neill Butte which we somehow climb down onto the Tonto Plateau before plunging into the inner Gorge of the Grand Canyon.
Upon reaching the Tonto plateau, the view back up at O'Neill Butte (see picture below right) is quite impressive. Don't ask where the trails are because it is really hard to find them.
As the next couple of hours rolled by and we passed countless hikers along we way we began to suspect the weather was going be alright. I heard from one hiker that the really bad weather was further east. After 21/2 hours of running downhill we rested at the famed Phantom Ranch. Below is a picture of Jane reaching the Phantom Ranch and in the foreground the ever present mule patties which decorate the trails.

After a brief respite we were off on the North Kaibab Trail. The trail meanders along Bright Angel Creek; the initial few miles are through the inner gorge and appears as though we are in a slot canyon. Gradually the view opens up to beautiful vistas of the bottom of the Grand Canyon (see picture below). There was little elevation gain till we hit the Cottonwood Campground but Jane and I were feeling the effects of the 2 1/2 hours of downhill running and the altitude and were hiking more than running. The combination of the pounding our legs took coming down the South Kaibab and the higher altitude than we're used to really began to wear away at our stamina. By this time the sun was out and the temperature was warm but pleasent.

After we passed the Cottonwood Campground we stopped at the Rangers house for a water stop and thereafter the remaining 6 miles up to the North Rim was hard, relentless hiking up a series of switch backs. From here you have to climb about 4000 feet to the top in 6 miles. However, we were rewarded by the natural beauty of the Roaring Springs side canyon that we scaled to the North Kaibab trail head. There are some magnificent views as we struggled up the North Kaibab. There weather turned colder and brief spitting rains prompted us to briefly don emergency ponchos that Jane brought along. At the right below is a picture of a couple of fellow hikers wearing their ponchos and hiking up a trail seemingly carved out of the canyon wall. Gradually we passed the over the Red Wall Bridge and passed through the Supai tunnel (below is a view down the Roaring Spring side canyon from the Supai Tunnel).

Finally we made it to the Coconino Overlook. Below is a panoramic view from the Coconino Overlook. Here, the flora began to change to pine forest dotted with birch trees. From the Coconino Overlook it was a short, easy mile hike to the trail head. We rested briefly at the trail head and met up with Bob C. who finally showed-up and then hitched a ride to the North Rim Lodge.

This was the best part of the whole trip. Just sitting in a warm car. Talking to the couple that picked the three of us up. In was one of those MasterCard "priceless" moments. You know what I mean.....flight to Phoenix, $300; rent-a-car, $100; hiking poles and camelbacks, $300; expression on the faces of the couple that gave us a ride to the North Rim Lodge after we told them what we just did and what we planned to do tomorrow.........priceless. After a shower and change of clothes we met up with Gena, Jeremy, and Beth for a nice dinner. Bob C.'s party arrived much later that evening, after we had finished dinner, around 7:00 pm. A snowstorm kicked-up that evening and a rumor started that snow would accumulate and make the trails dangerous next morning and Bob C. and his party arranged to take a shuttle back to the South Rim. The rest of us took a wait-and-see attitude and turned-in for a good night's sleep.