July 02, 2007

Desert Southwest Vacation (Day 4)

Day 4 (Tuesday, June 19th). We would stay the next two nights in Sprindale with an emphasis on exploring Zion Canyon National Park. One of big activities around much of southern Utah, and in Zion, is canyoneering which involves hiking along streambeds in narrow canyons called slot canyons. Today was our much anticipated canyoneering adventure, a hike up the North Fork of the Virgin River to a region called the Narrows. The Zion Narrows is a legendary hike, a must-do if you visit Zion. Since the hike is alongside and through the Virgin River, which carved this spectacular slot canyon, it's a great hike in summer; the temperature in the canyon is supposed to be approximately 10 degrees cooler and there is a lot of shade.


We began the day by renting 5.10 Canyoneer river shoes, neoprene socks and staffs from an outfitter conveniently located in Springdale and boarding the local shuttle to Zion. The hike to the Zion Narrows begins at the end of an easy one-mile Riverside Walk Trail at the Temple of Siniwava shuttle stop. We had an annoying shuttle bus driver, "Dan-Dan the driving man", who tried to amuse and educate us about the park as he SLOWLY drove us to the Temple of Siniwava stop. During the busy summer months the shuttle buses are the only means to get into the park. Although this was a little frustrating, I can only imagine how bad the drive would have been if all the visitors were allowed to drive into the park. Anyway, we eventually reached the Temple of Siniwava shuttle stop and hike the easy one mile paved Riverside Walk Trail. At the end of the trail we plunged into the Virgin River and started hiking upsteam. We hiked in ankle to knee-deep water navigating to dry, rocky patches along the shore where possible. See picture of Elroy hiking upriver at right. At the beginning the river channel was wide, the river bottom consisted of rounded rocks that were faily easy to walk over, especially equipped with canyoneering shoes and a sturdy staff for extra support. Although we saw some people hike upstream in bare feet or tennis shoes, I think the $17 rental fee for the canyoneering shoes and staff was money well-spent.



Less than half-a-mile from the Temple of Sinawava, we passed Mystery Falls, a beautiful spot where water rolls down the sandstone walls from the canyon above. Approximately two miles upstream the walls of the main canyon close-in, forming the narowest section of the canyon. This section is called the Narrows or Wall Street where the Virgin river is forced into a spectacular gorge, as narrow as 20 feet and as deep as 2,000 feet. See picture of Jane and kids at right. In the Narrows we were hiking in mostly shade, and in deeper water, with occasional narrow shafts of light penetrating the canyon opening to the water below. In some places the water ran deeper and swifter as the river was forced into this narrowed canyon space. There are ample warnings to not go into the slot canyons if there is any chance of flash flooding--I can see why. This being the summertime, there was zero chance of rain and there were a lot of hikers at the beginning but fewer the farther upstream we hiked. It was spectacular and almost impossible to photograph the scale of the canyon walls in the Narrows.


We hiked a side canyon of the Narrows, the Orderville Canyon. Orderville Canyon has much less flowing water, but there are many obstacles that involved a bit of rock-scrambling. The picture at left was a particularly nice fern-covered section of the canyon. Roughly half-a-mile up Orderville Canyon, we reached a small waterfall formation (Veiled Falls) where the National Park Service has placed a sign that prohibits further travel upstream. In all we spent 8 hours hiking--the most time we've ever spent hiking. I had to really take my time on the trek back to the River Walk Trail, my legs were tired and stumbled a bit. We stopped a few times to eat, drink and to refocus on getting back without getting hurt or wet. We were really tired when we finished and our feet, especially Jane' feet, were sodden and sore. We were happy when we finally got to take the wet shoes and socks off and rest poolside back at the hotel.

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