July 04, 2007

Desert Southwest Vacation (Day 5) Part II

Day 5 (Wednesday, June 20th). After leaving Grafton the next stop was Pipe Spring National Monument. To get there I took a nine mile short-cut over an unimproved "dirt" road. Southern Utah is criss-crossed with a number of these dirt roads that are considered passable in dry conditons. It's wise to check with the locals that the roads are indeed passable--in this case the clerk at the Driftwood Lodge routinely had used this road and said it would PROBABLY be okay for our rental car. The couple mile climb up to the top of the mesa was a little unnerving as the road was badly eroded and that we were in the middle of nowhere with no one in sight if we got stuck (see picture above). That concern aside, the drive was very scenic and once we reached the mesa the road was in pretty good condition (see picture of the good portion of the road we traveled below right). Near the end of this road we passed this fence that had collected tumbleweeds which is where I stopped to take the picture at right. After reaching pavement again we headed southeast to Pipe Spring National Monument.



Pipe Spring provided a reliable water source in this generally dry and rather barren country. For early Mormon settlers the spring became the focal point for various buildings and eventually a small fort (named Winsor Castle after its constructor,

A.P. Winsor). The two-story fort, seen in the background in the picture on the left, was intended to protect the spring and neighbouring cattle grazing lands against Navajo Indian raids from the south; a threat that never materialised. The neighboring Paiute indians suffered due to cattle grazing the grasses that previously sustained them, however, it seems that the Paiutes and Mormons worked out their differences and achieved some measure of peacable coexistence.



Now, the fort, outbuildings, and various agricultural relics are preserved and serve as an interesting illustration of pioneer life. Because it is isolated geographically the Pipe Spring is not a popular tourist destination, however it is definitely worth a visit and can easily be completed in an hour or so including the tour of the fort. There are nice gardens, crops, along with buildings and exhibits. These include besides the fort, a blacksmith's shop, poultry and riding sheds, two ponds with resident geese, an orchard, old wagons, a corral and riding equipment. Other animals include Texas longhorn cattle, chickens and horses. Pipe Spring itself is covered by the fort; the water runs underground through pipes and across one room in an open trough before emerging to supply the ponds. The open trough was used for keeping food chilled (and the water was quitedchilly); of the food items made in the room with the trough was butter and cheese.




The tour guide indicated that there were about 10 main rooms on 2 levels, in 2 sections with doors and windows facing inwards to a central courtyard, all enclosed by a high wall. The fort was partially built into a hillside and the walls were thick to keep in the cool air. On our tour of the fort, the air inside was very comfortable. Although the defensive capabilities of Pipe Spring were never tested the guide pointed out that the small windows above the beds (in an upstairs bedroom) were originally designed to serve as gun ports. However, the fort was used primarily as a ranch and waystop for thirsty travelers and later as a private residence. The fort was designated a National Monument in 1923.


Afterward, we made our way to the north rim of the Grand Canyon. The north rim is supposedly less crowded and has better views than the south rim. The downside is the driving around needed to get to the overlooks. We just went to the Bright Angel area were the visitor center and lodge were located. We did a little hiking along the rim and a lot gazing. We had a nice day with good visibility and could see the trail to the south rim. To appreciate the Grand Canyon I think one needs to hike it rim to rim or take a 4-6 day ride down the Colarado river. Both are on our list of future vacations. Views of the Grand Canyon from Bright Angel Point are below.






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