July 04, 2007

Desert Southwest Vacation (Day 6)

Day 6 (Thursday, June 21st). Today the plan was to hike Angel's Landing--the other classic Zion experience. Angels Landing, as seen from the start of the West Rim Trail near the Grotto Trailhead (see picture at right) looks innocent enough. At worst a tough climb, but not too bad, right? Don't believe it......this was the scariest hike I've ever done. Since 1983, 7 people have fallen to there death during the most dangerous final half mile.......which we didn't do. One person fell to their death the week before we got there. Let me guide on our the way up to Angel's Landing.



We started the hike by crossing a bridge over the Virgin River that follows the West Rim Trail as it switchbacks up the west side of the canyon. The hike at this point is uphill but not too strenuous and we got great views of the canyon (see picture at left). Soon we entered what is called Refrigerator Canyon -- a deep hanging side canyon where temperatures always remain cool and at least during the morning when we were there was in shade. Here, the incline lets up for a little bit until we get to an amazing bit of 1930's CCC engineering: Walter's Wiggles -- a set of many compact switchbacks that takes the trail all the way up to the top of the ridge where we arrived at Scout's Lookout about 1000 feet above the canyon. At Scout's Lookout hikers can opt to leave the comfortable West Rim Trail to do the final half-mile hike to the Angels Landing viewpoint or turn around and head back down.


Here's a description of the final section. The final half-mile consists of walking and sometimes crawling up the narrow spine of the mountain an additional 500 feet in elevation. There are many exposed sections where you can look down on both sides to the canyon below. That would be looking down approxiately 1200-1500 feet!!! Although there are chains and carved steps to help ease the mind, if you have no mountain-climbing or exposed hiking experience, this hike can be quite intimidating. Duh! If you are overcome by panic at the first section of chains, do not continue any further. It doesn't get any better!


Up to this point I had a lot of confidence I could make it to the end. I should mention here that Scout's Lookout is also known as "chicken-out point"!!! Once we rested and I started looking at the route coming up (see picture at right) which consisted of carved steps along the side of the mountain with chains to hold onto and a thousand foot drop-off on the right-side......I chickened out. Click-on the picture to expand and look for the hikers navigating up the trail and the neat little sign warning about the danger of falling.


Jane and kids felt okay and decided to push-on. As I sat at Scout's Lookout I began to really worry about Jane, Elroy and Judy. What if they got stuck and needed my help---the worst, most exposed section of the trail was yet to come. As I sat there, head in hands, maybe 10-15 minutes later Jane came back, followed a few minutes later by Elroy and Judy. No, they didn't make it to Angel's Landing----but they were safe. Elroy took a photo of the next section of the trail which follows the narrow 3-4 foot wide spine of the mountain up to Angels Landing (see picture below). Again, people were going up there--you'll have to click on the picture to spot them.

After washing the bad taste of shame and humiliation out of my mouth with a swig of water we headed back down the trail and headed out of Zion. Our next stop was Bryce Canyon National Park which was about 1 1/2 hour drive from Zion. As we left Zion there was one more hike I wish we had done, the Canyon Overlook Trail. The trailhead is directly after another Zion-classic, the Zion-Mt. Carmel tunnel. The Zion-Mt. Carmel Tunnel is 1.1 miles long. It was blasted and cut through thick Navajo sandstone during the early 1900s. The task of cutting through 2,000 foot thick sandstone, in those days, was not easy and was considered to be an engineering marvel. The Canyon Overlook Trail is supposedly an easy one mile hike that does provide a great view of the lower canyon and notable mountains in the background including the Altar of Sacrifice (look at upper right for what appears like a dark blood stain dripping down from the top of the mountain). Yeah....it's that kind of park.



No comments: